PORTSMOUTH — When Ryan Lee Crosby travels from his Island Park home to Bentonia, Miss., it’s not just a trip — it’s a pilgrimage. Each time, he returns with a fresh sense …
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PORTSMOUTH — When Ryan Lee Crosby travels from his Island Park home to Bentonia, Miss., it’s not just a trip — it’s a pilgrimage. Each time, he returns with a fresh sense of clarity, as if the journey delivers him not only back to the heart of the blues but also to himself.
That clarity shapes Crosby’s new album, At the Blue Front, recorded with blues elder Jimmy “Duck” Holmes at the iconic Blue Front Café. The eight-track record, released Aug. 20, captures the hypnotic pulse of Bentonia and Hill Country blues while bearing witness to Crosby’s own search for meaning.
Founded in 1948, the Blue Front Café is the oldest surviving juke joint in Mississippi, a place where music, food, and community have intertwined for generations. Holmes, now 77, grew up there, learning directly from masters like Jack Owens and Henry Stuckey, and keeping alive the Bentonia blues tradition pioneered by Skip James.
For Crosby, the Blue Front is more than a recording venue — it’s a refuge. “I come back with clarity about what I hope the rest of my life is going to be,” he said. The café’s timeworn walls and Holmes’ quiet presence remind him of “Indian gurus I’ve met,” instilling both calm and urgency.
Recording in Bentonia
Crosby and his collaborators recorded At the Blue Front on a reel-to-reel machine during two improvisation-rich sessions. Joining him were percussionist Grant Smith and harmonica player Jay Scheffler, with Holmes contributing guitar and vocals to half the tracks.
Holmes’ involvement pushed Crosby to stay nimble. “Everything is unfolding. You can’t stop paying attention, for a second,” he said. That unpredictability, a hallmark of Bentonia style, gives the music its mesmerizing pull.
The sound is raw yet luminous: Crosby’s electric 12-string, processed through a warbling effect, floats above steady percussion and harmonica flourishes. Holmes’ guitar and vocals deepen the atmosphere, most notably on a commanding rendition of “Catfish.”
Lifelong apprenticeship
Crosby’s path to Bentonia began in his teens, listening to blues greats like John Lee Hooker and Jimmy Reed. Over the years he expanded into punk, African and Indian classical music, and post-punk, but the trance-like grooves of Hill Country blues pulled him back. About 15 years ago, he turned his focus to the minor-key, cyclical structures of the Bentonia tradition.
In 2019, he visited the Blue Front for the first time. “The room was striking, just as I had seen in photos,” he recalled. It reminded him of punk clubs where he cut his teeth. Meeting Holmes cemented the bond: “He showed me around and shared some knowledge on guitar. A meaningful connection ensued.”
Since then, Crosby has become a fixture at the Bentonia Blues Festival and Clarksdale’s Juke Joint Festival. His relationship with Holmes has grown into one of mentorship and friendship, reflected in the collaborative spirit of the new record.
Music as renewal
Crosby often describes his immersion in the blues as a process of self-discovery. “I feel like my study of the blues has helped me become a functioning person in the world,” he said. “It’s helped me grow into myself, and it’s something I take very seriously and approach with reverence.”
The sessions weren’t without obstacles. A tornado swept through during one overnight break, forcing the crew to huddle in hallways and closets. Yet the challenge only underscored what the music means to him.
“Playing with Jimmy,” Crosby said, “it’s the joy, it’s the learning, it’s the connection and transcendence and what feels to me like a fulfillment of life’s purpose.”
Ryan Lee Crosby will play a matinee show with Jimmy “Duck” Holmes at Myrtle in East Providence at 2 p.m. on Saturday, Sept. 13. For more live dates, visit ryanleecrosby.com.