Bristol sushi restaurant opens for business

The much-anticipated Baba Sushi enjoyed a quiet ‘soft opening’ this week

By Christy Nadalin
Posted 12/18/19

Along with the building next door at 211 Thames St., the current state of the building housing Baba Sushi at 205 Thames St. is a proud example of what happens when a public-private partnership works …

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Bristol sushi restaurant opens for business

The much-anticipated Baba Sushi enjoyed a quiet ‘soft opening’ this week

Posted

Along with the building next door at 211 Thames St., the current state of the building housing Baba Sushi at 205 Thames St. is a proud example of what happens when a public-private partnership works well.

Two years ago, the buildings just north of the Ever Ready Engine & Hose Company were eyesores. They had been purchased by the town back in 2013 to secure public access to the congested downtown waterfront, but while the town had planned to level the buildings and expand the open space on Thames Street, the Rhode Island Historical & Preservation Commission put a stop to those plans, declaring the structures, which date to the mid-19th century, too historically significant to destroy.

Enter the Bergenholtz family, historic preservationists who have restored several downtown properties, including the Nathaniel Church House on High Street, 41 Church St., 42 Bradford St., and 366 Hope St. The family took control of the properties for a $7,000 annual lease plus property taxes, and got to work with an ambitious restoration plan.

The result is stunning — outside, two brightly but historically appropriately painted buildings, one blue, one a mustard yellow, lend a splash of color to the streetscape. Meanwhile, the interior of the restaurant, designed by Anthony Kho Sasih, hits all the right notes. It’s at once cozy and open; historically sensitive, yet definitely not stuck in the past.

By all indications, Baba Sushi is a tenant worthy of this location. It is restauranteur Wilson Wang’s third Baba Sushi (with others in Worcester and Sturbridge, Mass.) He also owns Chuan Shabu, a hot-pot-style restaurant, next door to the Baba Sushi in Worcester.

As the name implies, sushi takes center stage on Wang’s menu. In addition to the standards, Baba offers some items less-often found on local sushi menus, including Escolar and Alaskan King Crab. The restaurant is now open daily. For reservations (recommended), call 401/655-6077.

Its Bristol opening was delayed during a controversy over the artwork that adorns the building's windows. The had to be altered to comply with Bristol sign ordinance.

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