Like the Van Hofs, my clients feel very strongly about maintaining the roots of their business and keeping in town.”

Girard Galvin, attorney representing Ragged Island Brewery

PORTSMOUTH — Ragged Island Brewery has cleared the first hurdle in establishing a farm brewery on property currently occupied by the Island Garden Shop and Van Hof Nursery at 54 Bristol Ferry Road 

After about an hour of comment from residents who largely supported the proposal during a public hearing, the Town Council voted 4-2 Tuesday night to amend the zoning ordinance to define the term “farm brewery” and allow the use throughout all zoning districts through the special-use permit process.

Donovan Gray Distributing, LLC is in a purchase-and-sales agreement with the Van Hof family to acquire the 37-acre nursery property with the intention of preserving the land as a working farm and expanding its operations currently located in the Portsmouth Business Park off Hedly Street. Ragged Island plans on growing hops, fruits and perhaps other ingredients for its beers on the property.

According to attorney Girard Galvin, representing Donovan Gray Distributing, the purchase of the property is contingent upon “whatever municipal relief” the town can offer — in this case, the zoning change.

Despite the ordinance amendment, you’ll still have to wait awhile before sipping Ragged Island’s TwoTree IPA or Five Tsar stout at the nursery. Assuming the brewery takes over the property, it would still be required to go through a stringent vetting process in seeking a special-use permit from the Zoning Board of Review, as would any other farm brewery proposal, according to Mr. Galvin. 

“What we’re asking for tonight is the very beginning of the road. It’s a long way to go for anyone to gain this type of use,” he said.

Comprehensive plan

Mr. Galvin argued the proposal was consistent with the town’s Comprehensive Community Plan in boosting economic development by supporting local business, retaining a rural character and preserving farmland from housing developments that strain municipal services. The Van Hof property has been on the market for about two years, and Mr. Galvin noted the family has received numerous offers from developers.

“They want to continue the agricultural use on that property,” he said. “Like the Van Hofs, my clients feel very strongly about maintaining the roots of their business and keeping in town.”

Adapt or die

The packed audience included members of the Van Hof family and other local farmers who said it’s become increasingly difficult for farmers to survive without adapting their businesses to bring in supplemental income. As examples they pointed to Escobar’s Highland Farm, which has a corn maze, or Greenvale Vineyards, which hosts weddings and concerts.

Steve Anderson, who used to work for Maplewood Farm on Hedly Street, said that during the Atkins Diet craze in the 1990s, he couldn’t give his potatoes away. So, he started selling sunflowers. 

“You have to diversify in order to survive as a farmer no matter what,” Mr. Anderson said. “You have to accept change. They’re not making farmers.”

The proposal was endorsed by Charles Allott, executive director of the Aquidneck Land Trust, who called breweries “the new face of farming.” He reminded the council of the “mega-gas stations and dollar stores” that have been popping up around town recently. “That’s all we’re growing in Portsmouth right now,” Mr. Allott said.

He noted the property wouldn’t be run much differently than a regular farm, except for one thing: In this case, the owner would have to go before the Zoning Board of Review first. “We are putting an added burden on this landowners to show there is no noxious use,” he said.

The Planning Board also submitted a favorable opinion for the proposal, and Town Planner Gary Crosby also threw his support behind the plan. “Their proposal would preserve 17 and a half acres of prime farmland soil by a highly regulated special-use permit process, as opposed to having 40 housing units by right. I would take that any day,” Mr. Crosby said to applause from many in the audience.

Manufacturing in residential zone

A sticking point for some objectors was that the zoning change allows for a manufacturing use — brewing beer — in a residential zone. Despite the property’s historic agricultural use as a farm and nursery with a retail garden shop, it’s located in an R-20 zone.

Local resident Nancy Howard said manufacturing belongs on industrial-zoned property, not in a residential area.

“I’m not against Ragged Island or the Van Hofs. I’m for open space,” said Ms. Howard.

Another resident, Peter Roberts, said a brewery would be odious to neighbors.

“Have you ever been to a brewery? It stinks,” said Mr. Roberts. 

To that, someone in the crowd joked about the smell of the Escobars’ cows wafting from across the street. Another resident, Lisa McDermott, said she’s been to Ragged Island and has never noticed any bad smells or heard anyone else complain about them.

Council member Paul Kesson, who cast one of the dissenting votes along with David Gleason, also expressed concerns over the manufacturing use. 

“What I have in front of me is not a big enough picture for me to vote for this,” said Mr. Kesson, adding he also had to consider the concerns of residents who pay the bulk of the town’s taxes and who live near farms where a brewery could go up.

Mr. Gleason said having a tasting room and growing hops and other ingredients on the property makes sense, but the manufacturing element belongs offsite. “In my mind, making a beer should take place in an industrial facility,” he said.

Council President Keith Hamilton, however, said he doesn’t believe residents will see much of a change in terms of use on the property if Ragged Island relocates there. There are four permanent buildings already on the land, he noted.

“If this brewery comes in and utilizes one of those buildings, then nothing really changes,” Mr. Hamilton said. He also reiterated that any proposal for a farm brewery would still be vigorously vetted, with the public allowed to comment at a zoning board hearing.

“We’re not saying that tomorrow, there will be a brewery on this piece of land or any piece of land in town,” he said.

Voting in favor were Mr. Hamilton and council members Kevin Aguiar, J. Mark Ryan and Linda Ujifusa. Voting against were Mr. Kesson and Mr. Gleason. Council member Elizabeth Pedro recused herself from the discussion and did not vote.